Fes el-Bali: Getting Lost is the Point
Inside the world's largest car-free urban area — the ancient medina of Fes, a 9th-century city that runs on foot and memory.
The medina of Fes el-Bali has 9,000 lanes. Some are dead ends. Some open into hidden squares with fountains. Some lead you in slow circles back to where you started. Hire a local guide for two hours, then spend the rest of the day alone. You will get lost. This is the point.
The Tanneries
Chouara Tannery is still operating as it did in the 11th century. Stand on a rooftop terrace above it — several leather shops offer free viewing access. The vats of pigment below are shocking: saffron yellow, poppy red, indigo blue. The smell is equally striking. Take the sprig of mint offered at the entrance.
How to Spend Your Time
Three full days is the minimum to do Fes justice — two in the medina, one for a day trip to Volubilis (Roman ruins, 1 hour away) or Meknes. The medina is overwhelming at first. Let it be. By the second day you will start to recognise landmarks.
