Sahara Sunrise: One Night in the Erg Chebbi Dunes
Sleeping under a billion stars in the dunes of Merzouga, then watching the desert turn gold at first light.
You arrive at Merzouga in the afternoon heat. The asphalt ends and the sand begins. Camel handlers are waiting — you ride for forty minutes into the erg to reach camp before dark. The Erg Chebbi dunes rise 150 metres at their tallest. At sunset they glow amber, then rose, then a deep burnt sienna before the light disappears entirely and the stars take over.
The Night
Sleep in a Berber tent, wool blankets heaped on the mattress. The silence is total. The Milky Way is visible to the naked eye. In the morning, climb the tallest dune barefoot to watch the sunrise. The cold sand becomes warm under your feet as the light spreads across the erg.
Day vs Night: The Extreme Temperature Swing
What surprises most visitors is the cold. Even in July, when the daytime high reaches 46°C, night temperatures drop to 24°C. In winter, after a day above 20°C, nights can fall below zero. The desert is not only a place of heat — it is a place of violent contrast.
Practical Notes
Bring cash — there are no ATMs near the dunes. Pack a head torch, a warm layer, and a scarf for protection against sand. Do not bring anything you would not want to find filled with sand when you return.